Somewhere between the overpriced boutique hotels and the bargain hostels lie the special places with great service, “buena onda” (a good vibe) and rates that make you assume there has been a misprint. Posadas (which is Spanish for “inns”) are not around every corner, however, so you have to know where to look. Here are some great one’s in South America.
1. Peru: Apu Lodge, Ollantaytambo
Many people rush through it on their way to nearby Machu Picchu, but the ancient Inca town of Ollantaytambo is well worth exploring for a few days, to get stuck into some alternative treks through the Sacred Valley or simply to hang out among the 15th-century ruins that dot the hillsides. The newly built Apu Lodge is run by Louise Norton, the Scottish founder of leaplocal.org (which puts travellers in touch with local guides), and her Peruvian husband. Seemingly designed with weary trekkers in mind, rooms come with orthopaedic beds, snug duvets and piping-hot power showers.
2. Bolivia: Las Olas, Copacabana 
Copacabana in Bolivia
South America’s other Copacabana is perched on the Bolivian shores of Lake Titicaca – but without the bikini thongs. 
With spectacular panoramic views across the expanse of royal-blue water, Las Olas is a quirky complex of four suites, owned and designed by a German architect. No detail has been overlooked: stairs are made from eucalyptus wood, windows are patterned with stained glass and floors feature cross-sections of pine trunks. For the most memorable experience, opt for the suite that resembles a terracotta-coloured beehive and comes with a circular bed. Book well ahead.
3. Uruguay: La Posada del Faro, Cabo Polonio
Savvy travellers bypass Uruguay’s most famous resort – the over-hyped, over-concreted Punta del Este – and head further up the coast to Cabo Polonio, an isolated village situated on its own peninsula. With no paved roads, no electricity and no internet, it’s ideal for those wanting a complete getaway. La Posada del Faro is new on the scene. Request one of their two bright-and-white front rooms, which lead straight on to an open porch with views across the village, the sprawling beach and the iconic lighthouse. It’s currently the low season, so the posada is closed, but it is open for bookings from December onwards. (Note: not to be confused with La Posada Del Faro in José Ignacio which, costing up to £350, is not such a bargain.)
4. Ecuador: Madre Tierra, Vilacabamba
The best time to approach Madre Tierra is just as the sun begins to set. That’s when the candles start twinkling in the canopy of ferns and you’ll be met by a night-time soundtrack of trilling crickets, cascading waterfalls and the low hum of voices from the open-fronted restaurant. Found just outside the town of Vilcabamba, in the so-called “Valley of the Immortals”, Madre Tierra has a new-age feel, with rooms resembling gingerbread cottages from a Brothers Grimm storybook. Relax in a hammock overlooking the sacred Madango mountain or with a treatment in the on-site spa.
5. Argentina: Capricho, Salta
If you’re heading to northwest Argentina, do your best to get a suite here. There are only two of them (one with a small lounge, the other with a spiral staircase to its own mezzanine). The service and styling are way beyond what you’d expect for the price, with nice touches that include lighting the central courtyard with tealights every night and welcoming every guest with a glass of local wine or a cup of speciality tea. The hearty breakfast is homemade, from the caramelised apple cake to the yogurt. And it’s also fantastically located, just a few minutes’ walk from the main plaza.
6. Colombia: La Casa, Santa Marta
Behind La Casa’s modest frontage lie three colourful guest rooms, a characteristic internal patio and an outdoor plunge pool that becomes a huge asset when the sun hits its peak. Having been extensively remodelled, the property is an ideal starting point for Tayrona National Park, one of the country’s biggest attractions. Guests are invited to stock up on products from the local markets – including seafood, freshly plucked from the Caribbean – and cook it themselves in the huge, open kitchen. Ask owner Angela about her yoga retreats.
7. Brazil: Eliconial, Paraty
When you are told a monkey could swing by for breakfast, you know you’re in a special place. Eliconial is a 20-minute walk from the historic centre of Paraty, with its cobbled streets and colonial houses, and it’s an even shorter walk to the beach. Set in a garden of tropical heliconias, the complex of wood-panelled bungalows includes a fair-sized outdoor pool. Book ahead if you want your visit to coincide with Paraty’s growing literary festival (flip.org.br), which takes place every August.
8. Argentina: Querido, Buenos Aires
Opening just two months ago, Querido is the labour of love of Anglo-Brazilian owners, who have spent more than two years transforming the site of a run-down 1920s townhouse. Although now thoroughly modernised, it retains many original features – such as the heavy-wood frames of the windows. The lounge is furnished with well-selected finds from local vintage shops, while the four subtly styled upstairs rooms all have shiny, polished parquet floors. The hotel is located on a peaceful residential street in the increasingly up-and-coming Villa Crespo barrio, yet it’s still less than 10 minutes’ walk to Palermo Soho, where you’ll find the city’s largest concentration of bars, restaurants and designer boutiques.
9. Venezuela: Posada Movida, Los Roques
This place would be just like a home from home – if your home was a Mediterranean-style villa in the middle of the Caribbean. Posada Movida sits on one of the 350 islands that make up the coral archipelago of Los Roques, 80 miles off the Venezuelan mainland. Book one of its six air-conditioned ensuites and owner Mario can help organise day trips of scuba diving, kite surfing or sea fishing. The posada’s rates typically include breakfast, a boat-trip to nearby islands, a picnic on the beach and a fresh-fish dinner.
10. Chile: Harrington B&B, Valparaíso
With its sunny yellow frontage, Victorian features and corrugated-iron panelling, this 1920s house is typically “Valpo”. Owned by a Franco-Chilean couple, it is on Cerro Concepción, where the city is at its most bohemian, with an abundance of arty cafes and vibrant street murals. Rooms have bright, clean, minimalist decor, with hot showers powered by the Pacific sun. The generous breakfast spread includes freshly baked bread and cakes.
Argentine flag carrier Aerolineas Argentinas is planning direct non-stop services from Sydney to 