Posts Tagged travel to peru

Painting the Andes – A New Measure Against Global Warming?

An inventor has set out to paint the peaks of the Andes white in an attempt to combat the effects of climate change.

By painting the mountains, Eduardo Gold hopes to replicate the effect of Andean glaciers in Peru, which reflect back sunlight and hence heat back through the atmosphere.

The technique is scientifically plausible and, according to some scientists, may be the only method of lowering global temperatures in a crisis.

It is believed that painting the Andean Peaks will slow down the glacier melting

It is believed that painting the Andean Peaks will slow down the glacier melting

“A white surface reflects the sun’s rays back through the atmosphere and into space, in doing so it cools the area around it too,” said the 55-year-old activist. “In effect in creates a micro-climate, so we can say that the cold generates more cold, just as heat generates more heat.”

It is hoped the project will slow the melting of the glaciers and keep in tact the beautiful Andean peaks for tourists on a Peru highlights tour or the Inca trail.

Four workmen have been given the task of painting three peaks, starting with Peru’s Chalon Sombrero peak, which lies 4,756 metres above sea level.

Chalon Sombrero, like many of the Andean peaks in Peru, has seen its glacier disappear within living memory.

The painters who have already completed two hectares of a planned 70 have been recruited from Licapa village, which depends on the run-off from the mountain for its water.

The project is a low technology remedy for global warming. The workers use an environmentally-friendly mix of lime, industrial egg white and water, which is known to have been used since Peru’s colonial times

The whitewash is slopped out on the slopes from jugs.

If the underlying theory, which is known as Solar Radiation Management, works the glacier should re-emerge in a cooler micro-climate.

The £135,000-project is funded by the World Bank after Mr Gold won a “100 Ideas to Save the Planet” competition last year.

The World Bank last year estimated that 22 per cent of Peru’s glaciers have melted since 1980 and there are projections that all the country’s glaciers could disappear in the next 20 years.

While novel the painting scheme is not the only outlandish way of tackling global warming proposed. Firing mirrors into space to reflect the sun’s rays, or feeding cattle garlic to reduce methane emissions have been mooted.

Locals who have witnessed the destruction of the glaciers are strong supporters of Mr Gold’s scheme. “All the peaks here should be painted in this way,” said Pablo Parco Palomino. “That way there would be as much water as there was before the glacier disappeared, and that would mean more pasture to support more livestock.”

But Antonio Brack, Peru’s Environment Minister, told the World Bank that its funding would be better spent on other “projects which would have more impact in mitigating climate change.”

Mr Gold believes he can put the theory into practice and get results. “I’d rather try and fail to find a solution than start working out how we are going to survive without the glaciers, as if the situation was irreversible,”

Steven Chu, the US Energy Secretary, has endorsed installation of white roofs to help prevent climate change, an idea seen as more logistically feasible than painting mountain peaks.

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Alternatives To Machu Picchu

With experts predicting Machu Picchu could be under threat, new tours to the alternative ruins are becoming increasingly more popular:

Machu Picchu, the 15th century Inca citadel, has become a cornerstone of Latin America tourism since the American historian, Hiram Bingham, first stubbed his toe on an overgrowth-covered stone slab in 1911.

Today the site attracts up to 700,000 visitors each year: in the forthcoming high season (July and August) you can spot around 1,000 Gore-Tex jackets clambering over the Sun Gate to catch the first rays at dawn.

In recent years, however, concerns have been expressed that Machu Picchu is falling victim to its own success. The primary concern is that the high volume of visitors is harming the site’s infrastructure. The United Nations cultural agency wants visitor numbers more than halved, while Unesco has said that it may put the ruin on its list of endangered sites.

The National Cultural Institute of Peru – the managing body responsible for Machu Picchu – have responded with a slew of measures intended to limit tourist numbers and improve conditions for the porters, who carry travellers’ backpacks in all weathers along the high-altitude Inca Trail. As a result, most visitors must now wait four to five days in Cuzco before getting a place on a trek.

Despite this, Machu Picchu remains the number one must-see on a South America tour. And, as such, the hunt is now on for new Inca ruins as a viable, ecologically sound alternative.

What most people don’t realise, however, is that there’s no shortage of alternative Inca trails, including hikes in Bolivia and Ecuador, Peru’s Andean neighbours.

Here we present four alternatives to Machu Picchu where you can catch the ruins but avoid the crowds.

The Choquequirao trail, Peru

Where? Meaning “Cradle of Gold” in the local Quechua language, this site – located just 50 miles from the world-renowned Inca trail – is being hotly tipped as the next Machu Picchu.

Choquequirao Ruins in Peru

Choquequirao Ruins in Peru

What’s to see? The new site is currently being championed by a French government initiative personally overseen by President Chirac. While the site is open for visitors, excavations are continuing to uncover the ruins. With new EU funding incoming, the development of surrounding infrastructure is likely to continue apace in the next few years.

How to get there: From Cuzco, it’s a tough eight-day trek by mule along passes in the Vilcabamba mountain range at an altitude of up to 4,600m – not for the faint-hearted.

The Ingapirca trail, Ecuador

Where? Ingapirca, located just 31 miles north Cuenca, is one of the most significant sites of the Inca empire and Ecuador’s best-preserved Inca ruins.

What’s to see? Following Inca pathways past mountain lakes and grassy valleys, this is one for scenery lovers. Better still, chances are you’ll have the trail to yourself as it receives just a fraction of the foot traffic of other Inca routes. Afterwards, stop off in the colonial city of Cuenca, the home of the Panama hat.

How to get there: Head by road from Quito to the trailhead at the village of Achupallas, after which it’s a moderate three-day trek. The last section of the trail is follows a 7m-wide Inca road directly to the ruins at Ingapirca.

The Choro trail, Bolivia
Where? Descending steeply from a high-altitude (4,750m) pass at La Cumbre, 14 miles outside of La Paz, to low-lying Coroico in the tropical Yungas region, this is one of the most popular treks in Bolivia.

What’s to see? This well-signposted trail follows a pre-Hispanic road that cuts through a savage but spectacular landscape via tiny villages and rustic pueblos. It’s low on infrastructure – take plenty of supplies – but great for a glimpse of rural Bolivian life. There’s also an overnight at the orchid plantation of Sandillani.

How to get there: Accessed from La Paz, it’s a moderate four-day, 37 miles walk and, best of all, almost completely downhill.

The pre-Inca trail, Peru

Where? From Cajamarca, inland from Peru’s northern coast, the trail leads, via Chiclayo and Sipán, where the most elaborate Moche tombs in Peru were discovered in 1987, to the town of coastal town of Trujillo, visiting other pre-Inca sites at Pampa Grande, El Dragón, and Chan Chán en route.

What’s to see? There’s more to Peru than just the Incas. Indeed, the north coast of Peru was home to the pre-Inca civilisations of the Moche and Chimu cultures, whose handiwork with roads and canals are thought to have inspired the Inca’s vast network.

How to get there: Cajamarca has daily flight connections to Lima; some flights are routed via Trujillo.

Contact Chimu to day to organise one of these great alternative treks!

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Chullpas of Sillustani – Peru

The chullpas, an Andean mausoleum, stand out in the horizon at the archaeological site of Sillustani. These funerary constructions constantly remind visitors of the respect that the leaders of the ancient Andean civilizations awoke. They are located near Lake Titicaca and are a must on a highlights of Peru tour.

This cemetery in the Highlands not only contrasts the world of the living with the world of the dead, but it also is a tribute that revives the hegemonic class of cultures like Pucara, Colla, Tiahuanaco and Inca from centuries ago.

Lake Umayo adorns the entrance to the archaeological site. While walking along the path that leads to Sillustani, you will notice the importance of water within the pre-Hispanic cultural activities.

The cultivating system organized in successive plots of land and water (the latter of about 25 to 30 centimeters deep) is worth noting.

Sillustani

Sillustani

You can also see small handmade stone channels of stone, which go from the shore of the lake to the top of the mountain where the cemetery is located. Know that these aqueducts had basically two functions: preventing stagnation of water in the upper parts to prevent damage to the shrines of the leaders and also serving as a channel for the blood of the sacrifices to reach the Umayo Lake.

Higher up it is possible to see what remains of a ceremonial spot in Sillustani. It consists of two circles: the larger one represents the sun and the smaller one, the moon. The solstices, for example, were ideal dates, due to their energy, to make payments to Earth.

An icon that goes unnoticed along the way are some standing stones about 1.70 meters tall, rectangular and about 35 centimeters thick. According to Julio Suaña, Titilaka hotel guide, “these had the religious significance that has the cross in Catholicism has today.”


The Towers
When traveling Sillustani several questions arise: did those that lie within the highest and most imposing chullpas occupy the most important posts? Not necessarily.

As Suaña says, the whole place is sacred because it is occupied by the nobility of several pre-Inca and Inca cultures. Whether the stone tower that served as the tombstone was located higher or lower was not a significant factor, because what was important was that they were facing the sun and the lake.

However, the so-called Twin Towers prove that there was some hierarchy. In both cases, the stones that were placed at the entrance of the chullpa have twelve angles, which, according to Suaña, “represent the twelve months of the year and the number of important families in the area.”

Another one of the chullpas that is most recognized is that of the lizard, which is twelve meters high. It is named like that due to the reptile image that is engraved on the top.

Also pay attention to the rocks with small circular excavations in the interior. These highlight the gear method used by the Incas to build the most modern chullpas (smooth texture on the outside) in Sillustani.

Once on top, do not miss the breathtaking view of the Hualloc Plateau, surrounded by the Umayo and the typical landscapes of the Altiplano which runs from Cusco to Puno.

At the exit you should pay attention to the puma-shaped rocks that guard either side of the stairs to the cemetery (that used to be the entrance).

After the Lake Titicaca tour take the opportunity to buy souvenirs such as Andean knit hats or sweaters in the various crafts stands, visit the site museum or have something hot in the simple little café, located just outside the archaeological center.

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Huancayo – The Lesser Known Side of Peru

Huancayo is located in the central highlands of Peru, in the gorgeous Mantaro valley. It’s not a touristy place and I’ve already been there, so why going back? Well, I wanted to ride the second highest train in the world, a journey with amazing landscapes and the feeling you are on top of the world. Also I wanted to explore the city and surroundings and discovered it is a must on a tour of Peru.

Main Plaza of Huancayo

Main Plaza of Huancayo

We left at seven in the morning, going east and then up to the mountains. The air was getting drier, which indicated we were getting higher. The landscape was changing too, taller mountains, beautiful blue sky and different vegetation. At the beginning some bushes and trees, later fields (corn, artichokes, among others) and at the highest point just the ichu (the only plant that can survive that high), but while going down to the valley lovely flowers were welcoming the visitors. Along the way there were 69 tunnels, 58 bridges and six zig-zags. Almost seven hours after departure, we reached the highest point: 4,800 meters! It was cold and hard to breathe. After that point, it was down the whole way to Huancayo, which is at 3,200 meters. It was almost 7:30 p.m. when we finally arrived on our first stop for  a highlights of Peru Tour.

Huancayo has grown a lot the past decades. In the 1980s it had 200,000 inhabitants — now the population is more than 450,000 and the first building I saw was a modern mall!

The first night was about settling down and taking things easy, because of the altitude. It was raining and a bit cold but that didn’t stop me. I walked to the main square Plaza Constitución, which was a lit up with yellow and warm lights that made me forget about how cold it was. Next stop was a recommended restaurant. This restaurant was one of the most expensive in town, but not expensive at all compared to the ones in Lima. I had a cup of warm coca leaf tea, so helpful for the headache caused by the altitude sickness and used everywhere in Peru, especially those heading to Cusco for a Machu Picchu Tour. It was Friday night and the streets were crowded with young people. I was impressed with the traffic, several minibuses and many taxis. All the taxis have a flat rate, so you don’t need to bargain like in Lima.

The next day started early with a good breakfast at a nice café, where prices are half of  what you would pay in Lima. The first stop was a hill outside the city Cerrito La Libertad, where you can get a nice view of the whole city and the lovely valley. Another recommended site was Torre Torre an impressive sandstone formation, just a 10-minute walk from the hill. This visit was about seeing charming adobe houses, small fields of potatoes, some dogs running and local residents enjoying a quiet day.

There was still plenty of time, so I went to Jauja, a small town nearby with some ruins and a lake with a famous trout farm. Jauja is pretty, therefore the Spanish chose it as the first capital of Peru. I didn’t climb all the way to the ruins. It was getting cloudier at the top of the mountain. Nevertheless, I walked for a while along the path. I saw a couple of farmers and their families working. The scenery was gorgeous. It was really peaceful there.

Back in Huancayo, I decided to explore the city itself. The main square definitely looked different during daytime. I think I preferred it at night. I also visited the Parque de la Identidad Huanca, a relatively new park, built in honor of local Huanca people. I even had time to go to the handicraft market. A tip: be ready to bargain. At night, I went to listen to some live music and see traditional dances. It was time to go back to the hotel. I wanted to wake up early next morning and visit the market. One of the things I recently learned is that visiting an open market is the best way to get to know a place better. The market is a place where you can really interact with the local people.

It was Sunday, the best day for visiting the market. On my way I could see street vendors offering all kind of food: sweets, salty snacks, quail eggs, soup, pork sandwiches etc.

Finally, I arrived at the central building. Since there are not many tourists visiting the market, taking pictures is

Markets

Markets

welcomed, but be careful with your camera. It was an eclectic mix of colorful flowers, fruits, vegetables, tongues, hearts and tripe. I like to watch people and this was the right place to do it. All the people were friendly.

Well, it was time to go to the bus station. The bus was cheaper than the train and the trip takes five hours less. Huancayo is not far away from Lima, therefore it’s a good choice for a weekend getaway on a Lima city tour and to leave behind the busy city and go somewhere peaceful in the Andes. There are two beautiful towns really close: Tarma and Jauja, plus the lovely valley. My advice is to go there by train, yes it’s more expensive, but worth it. As somebody said: “Life is a journey and not a destination.”

Chimu Adventures offers custom tours to Huancayo and a highlights of Peru tour, visit our website for more details.

The second highest train in the world took me to Huancayo, Peru.

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Aerolineas Announces Possible New Buenos Aires – Cusco Flight

Argentine airline Aerolineas Argentinas announced that by the end of this year it would begin flying from Buenos Aires to Cusco, with a stopover in an Argentine province that has yet to be determined.

The state-run airline, the largest domestic and international airline in Argentina, expressed its interest in covering this route at Expo Perú in December 2009.

Machu Picchu - Cusco's biggest attraction

Machu Picchu - Cusco's biggest attraction

Aerolineas Argentinas official Jorge Lopez said the company’s interest has not changed due to the recent adverse weather conditions, particularly heavy rains in many Cusco areas.

“We are still keen to fly to Cusco because it is a favourite destination for Argentine citizens and a major attraction in world tourism,” he told Andina.

“The progress of this project will depend on the company’s future performance and its criteria for prioritizing investment projects, including that of Cusco,” he added.

The project would be great news for Long – haul visitors to South America from Australia and New Zealand in particular. Greg Carter of Chimu Adventures says this would give a chance for tourists visiting Argentina to have a quick stop over in Cusco to see the world famous Machu Picchu ruins – “Usually, visitors flying into Buenos Aires that want to see Machu Picchu, have to endure another  flight to Cusco via Lima which can be quite long and not always have desirable connections. However, with this new flight from Aerolineas Argentinas, travellers have the opportunity to fly to Cusco in a lot shorter time giving greater access to the ancient ruins.”

Cruise passengers on the popular Buenos Aires – Santiago route are also set to benefit as Chimu Adventures will be unveiling a promotional Machu Picchu side trip package, including return Buenos Aires to Cusco flights, when the flight becomes operational.

Chimu Adventures offers Buenos Aires stopover tours as well as Cusco and Machu Picchu tours, the famous Inca trail to Machu Picchu and longer Andes & Amazon tours. Visit www.chimuadventures.com for more details.

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Uros Islands – Lake Titicaca

Removed from political turmoil, Lake Titicaca provides with an undisturbed bubble of bliss. Along with hypnotising cobalt blue skies, ancient rituals and a damn fine fiesta to boot.

Historically, Titicaca has offered such sanctuary. In the 15th century, the Incan Empire swept south to conquer what is now Peru and Bolivia, enslaving indigenous tribes in subjugated territories. Straddling the border between the two countries, Titicaca was a strategic fulcrum. But the Uros Indians rebelled against the Incan regime. They took to the water and created a series of islands built upon beds of packed reeds. The world’s first man-made archipelago! To this day, the islands survive, as do their resilient Indian custodians. The Incas simply couldn’t be bothered flushing out the refugees.

The islands are named after their creators: Los Uros, “the Floating Islands” and are a must see on a Lake Titicaca tour. The inhabitants eke out a livelihood from fishing and tourism: upon touching shore, a cavalcade of indigenous women appear in gloriously vibrant garments and pelt-brown bowler hats, peddling local handicrafts on colourful mats.

Stepping onto this “terra non-firma” is an acutely bizarre experience. Like walking on a futon, the ground beneath you sinks slightly with each step. Each week packs of new reeds are sewn onto the ground to replace those submerged and disintegrating underneath.

Abruptly, we’re whisked away aboard one of Uros’s trademark reed boats; made of the same tortora reeds that constitute the islands’ foundations, roofs and walls of its dwellings. Our oarsman is a traditionally-clad local who looks straight out of an Andean pipe quartet. After the obligatory photo opportunities, we hop back into our motorcraft. Destination: Amantani. Accommodation: Titicaca farmhouse.

Amantani is the largest of Titicaca’s natural, non-floating islands, and home to some 5000 Aymara Indians. The inhabitants have proudly maintained their cultural distinction and autonomous control over tourism. No Hyatts or Mercures here: the only accommodation is a traditional Amantani farming homestead.

We dock on the foreshore and are met by a throng of farm women. One by one, our tour group is paired off, as our prospective hosts giggle among themselves. We locate our landlady, who promptly disappears up the island’s steep hills, forcing us to follow.

At 3870 metres above sea level, Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake. Clambering up Amantani’s precipitous ridges, one feels every wisp of diminishing oxygen. Each step is a breathless endeavour, mollified only by the area’s stunning natural beauty and the perfect symmetry of surrounding agricultural terraces. Even today, the ancient Incan systems of agriculture and stonemasonry are proudly preserved.

Our homestead is a basic whitewashed building, with chest-high doorways. Luckily we’re hardly Harlem Globetrotter-height, yet somehow we feel like Gandalf crouching down in a hobbit hovel.

Amantani residents are vegetarian, since raising animals for meat is impractical. Host families are paid a nominal fee by tour agents, but you’re recommended to bring a gift of rice, flour, sugar or other basic necessities.

In return we’re treated to a delightful spread of quinua soup (a Peruvian grain), rice, chips, eggs, and delicious herbal tea. I attempt to make small-talk with our matronly host, but she ducks out giggling. My fiancee notes that she may not speak Spanish, as Aymara Indians are self-sufficient and isolated.

We rejoin the Peru tour group and trek to Amantani’s crest, and the twin temples of Patchamama (Mother Earth) and Patchatata (Father Earth). Set on opposite hills, the ruins are guardians of the respective gods of fertility and the afterlife. In February, the islanders run a race between them, to determine how fortunes will fall for the forthcoming harvest.

Floating Islands of Uros - Lake Titicaca

Floating Islands of Uros - Lake Titicaca

We climb to the Patchamama temple, where we customarily orbit the shrine three times: for luck, health and a bountiful crop. As if responding, the gods bless us with the most dazzling sunset over the frosty currents of Titicaca. The moment is profoundly spiritual, or would have been, were it not for the torturous strains of pan-pipes played by children, busking for donations.

That night, a pea (dance) is organised for our group. The sole requirement is that we attend in local costume. The male uniform is a simple woollen poncho and woven beanie, while the women’s is a complex tangle of multilayered skirting that takes 30 minutes to don and transforms the most shapely female figure into a pepperpot.

A traditional Andean band entertains us in the village community hall. The Aymara women pluck out tourists for a strange circular dance in which participants drag each other violently in opposing directions. The women are surprisingly strong, and cackle at what pushovers we Western males are.

The true survivors of the night, however, are the local six-year-old girls. They select their favourite tourist partners, whom they thoroughly exhaust with an incessant display of youthful energy and curious skirt twirling.

While our stamina fades, our smiles do not. Titicaca and Amantani stamp us with a carefree happiness that, unlike de Botton’s ephemeral 10-minute joy, lasts the entire tour and beyond.

Chimu Adventures offers a Lake Titicaca Dreaming tour as well as a highlights of Peru tour including the great lake. Visit our website for more details.

Source: SMH

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Machu Picchu to Re-open to Tourists

Following the closure of access to Machu Picchu after the recent flooding, the Cultural National Institute of Peru (INC) and Ferrocarril Transandino (FTSA) has announced that the railroad is due to be reopened on 29th March.  The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu will reopen to tourists on 1st April 2010.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Visitors will take road transportation from Cusco to a train station at Piscacucho at km 82 (a station beyond Ollantaytambo) and from there will board the train to Aguas Calientes.  An official ceremony will mark the reopening of the railway on 29th March for the first train and then visitors are able to partake in Machu Picchu tours and the famous treks to citadel such as the Inca trail tour.

For those wishing to take the Inca Trail route to Machu Picchu, the trek is also expected to be open on the 1st of April.  There are also many alternative and outstanding treks on offer, such as the Salkantay and Lares trek which also reach Machu Picchu.

According to the verification conducted by the Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism, the Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, as well as the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu itself, did not suffer any damage at all in the recent floods.

Machu Picchu is one of South America’s major tourist attractions and was given the title of one of the new Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.   2011 will mark 100 years since the rediscovery of Machu Picchu when the American explorer and politician, Hiram Bingham rediscovered the lost city of the Incas in 1911 and brought its attention to the rest of the world.

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A Peruvian Adventure with Chimu Adventures

Chimu Adventures travelers – Ben and Josie Benoit – embark on a fantastic journey around South America and the world. Below tells of their adventures in Peru:

“10 days in and it feels like we’ve been away forever – and what a fantastic start to our adventure…a bonus upgrade to Business class on the flight out; the crazy, hectic city that is Lima for a 24-hour rude awakening to Peru; 3 blissful days meandering the streets and ruins of Cuzco; 4 energetic but immensely rewarding days doing the Inca Trail Tour to the stupendously beautiful (and fortunately really sunny) Machu Picchu; 1 day basking in the sun on an unforgettable steam train, journeying through the Andean countryside from Cuzco to Puno. We thank our lucky stars that we’ve seen (almost all of) the highlights of Peru.Cow Procession

24-hours in Lima

We won’t gloat any more about the flight upgrade but arriving in style to Lima really helped – they don’t let the other passengers off the plane until Bus. Classers have collected their luggage. Here we witnessed a cow parade, a brass band fanfare, a group of school children salsa-ing in the playground, a football match in the middle of the motorway, the fattest squat sweet corn plugged by the street vendors on every corner, tones of building work and an incredible church made from mud.

CuzcoCuzco streets

The afternoon flight to Cuzco was incredible – a 10 min, 20,000 feet, 180 degree descent into the town’s bowl, with spectacular mountains either side. Cuzco was much bigger than we expected but 3 days gave us ample time to explore and, of course, acclimatise to the 3,600 m.a.s.l. (metres above sea level) altitude. We stayed in a beautiful hostel (Amaru, on the San Blas), feasted on avocado, alpaca (tough), ceviche of trout in lemon juice (yum), guinea pig (questionable) and nachos, huffed and puffed up the steep, narrow roads to the “Sexy Woman” ruins, watched the world go by with a rocket-fuel coffee on the balconies overlooking the main plaza, took a day trip to the tall ruins and vibrant towns of Ollantaytambo and Pisac (via beautiful, sparse landscapes) and supped pisco sours and our first delicious South American wine. Our Cusco tour certainly was one not to be forgotten.

Inca trail

The time had finally come to embark on the Inca Trail – between us and Machu Picchu were 45 kilometers, ~25 hours of trekking and a great deal of sweat and resilience. We awake a little nervous at 0530 to head off to the “KM82” point, where the trail begins. Our guide is a softly spoken 25-year-old called Washington. He is barely capable of growing a beard and should be sitting his GCSEs rather than guiding us up the mountains of Peru – but he turns out to be extremely knowledgeable. We are in a group of 3 with our guide, and part of a larger group of 10 (plus 2 other guides and 9 amazing porters). Our other companions include a quiet Brazilian couple, a pessimistic Belgian couple (50 years old! – awesome stamina during the ascent), 2 lovely Irish honeymooners and 1 aloof Frenchman.

Day 1 of the hike is pretty comfortable. Ben’s knee has a dodgy moment, locking on the descent to lunch, but this is the only worry he encounters for the entire trip. Key-hole surgery is truly miraculous – his op. was 3 weeks before the trip! For our first lunch, we feast on asparagus soup and beef, tomatoes and rice in a small ‘dining’ tent. We arrive in a peasant village in Wayllabamba, in the shadow of a mountain called Veronica (nearly 6,000 metres high). We’re basically camping in the back garden of some farmers, and are woken up at 4am to a donkey depositing his ‘gifts’ at the opening of our tent and chickens pecking our guy ropes. Already getting back to grips with a flashlight torch and hole-in-the floor toilet training…Inca steps

Day 2 is the hardest day of the trek. A continuous 1,200 metre ascent to the “Dead Woman’s Pass”, followed by a steep 600 metre descent to the camp, all before any lunch!!! We kick off at 0500 for brekkie, are on the road for 0615 and arrive at Paqaymayu camp at 1330, having battled serious wind and rain. We spend a soggy evening in our water-logged tent, tempered only by the warm Andean rum punch (hot water, lemon, cinnamon, lime and rum) provided by Roger, the other guide who used his mafia-esque connections to procure alcohol and change our train tickets for an earlier departure on the final day. We love you, Roger!

Day 3 is spent trekking in and out of the jungle in an eerie mist punctuated by lovely Inca ruins, all building nicely for the main course of Machu Pichu on the final day. Day 3 is also the first opportunity we have for a warm shower. Well, that was true for one of us – they’ve upgraded the ladies’ showers only at camp. The site has a bar and a bit of music so we enjoy some seriously strong G&Ts before dinner. Day 3 is also most memorable because (a) the toilet situation has seriously improved, and (b) we get to meet all the porters who have carried our tents, food and cooking equipment all the way from “KM82”. Their job is probably the most unenviable in the world as they lug 25kgs of stuff up and down the Inca steps at breakneck speeds to arrive at camp, set up our tents and cook our food before we arrive. It was humbling to hear about their families and lifestyle. The least we could do was continually thank them, buy them a beer and offer them an appropriate tip.

Day 4 We leave camp at 0500 to peg it up the mountain to the Sun Gate to get the first glimpse of Machu Pichu. We arrive at 0615 and luckily, the sun has just risen and we get perfect views of the Lost City. From this distance, Machu Machu Pichu Postcard shotPicchu is looking pretty small, but once we get down to the ruins, the views are stupendous. We dump the loathed rucksacks and embark on a 2-hour tour with Washington, to learn about the King’s habitat for himself and his 400!! children, the result of several (100s of?) concubines, and the Sun Temple’s geometrically-aligned windows, allowing light during the summer and winter solstice to hit the same point on some special rock: a symmetry that, today, astrologists still marvel at.

Once the tour is over and we’ve finished gazing in wonder at this place, we head into Aguas Calientes for a well-deserved lunch. Jossie is brave enough to order a barbequed guinea pig, complete with head, paws, teeth and organ appendages. That’s officially our last encounter with the “Cuy” – not enough meat, and far too graphic to dissect. We chug back to Cuzco on a 2-hour train and 90 minute break-neck bus drive, enjoying the amazing landscape and feeling that we definitely earned the right to see such a modern wonder of the world.

And so to Puno…

Today is a completely different experience: as we write, we are meandering through fantastic countryside from Cuzco to Puno on the Andean Explorer, Peru’s equivalent of the Orient Express. Greg, an avid ‘trainer’ from the UK, tells us that this is the world’s most beautiful train journey. We kick off with pisco sours at 10am, have a silver service 3-course meal for lunch and afternoon tea with champagne cocktails. But best by far is the open-air, gold-railed final carriage, where we watched the world go by, sitting in the sun, and took thousands of photos of Peruvian life – farmers herding lamas, children playing by the railway, and the occasional manic town (Juliaca) selling anything from spare car parts, rope, books, fruit and veg by the side (and sometimes actually on!) the rail track.

So..1 more day left in Peru before we transfer to Copacabana for a different perspective of Lake Titicaca from the Bolivian side – it’s been a fantastic 10 days and we’d recommend Peru to anybody.”

Chimu Adventures offers many Peru tours including the Inca trail Tour, Highlights of Peru Tour and Lake Titicaca Tour. Visit our website for more details.

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Inca Trail 2010 Season

Reach Machu Picchu on the Inca TrailThere is no more popular Peru Tour than the Inca Trail and 2009 was a fantastic year for the famous trek. The year  saw it’s popularity continue to grow and grow as almost all days were a complete sell out and it is obvious to see why as the Inca trail tour is one of the most historic, cultural and scenic treks in the world. The four day hike can be challenging at times but the rewards are more than worth it as you reach one of the Seven Wonders of the World –Machu Picchu, the traditional way.

Right now there is great availability for all months in 2010. However, if 2009 was anything to go by 2010 will be booked out fast so get in quick to secure your place now!

Chimu Adventures offers the 4 day Inca Trail tour at very competitive prices as well as many other Peru Tours. Visit our website for more details.

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The Inca Trail – The Authentic Way to Reach Machu Picchu

Our Inca trail group!

Our Inca trail group!

Alot has been written and said about the Inca trail in recent years but the only real way to see what the hype is all about is to experience it yourself first hand. It can be a little bit challenging and sometimes you will wish you had taken the train like thousands of other people to reach Machu Picchu. For me however, the experience and the reward at the end more than made up for the difficulties on the classic four day trek.

Day 1: Cusco and a Relatively Easy Warm-Up Day

Early in the morning the guide collected us from the hotel in Cusco and transported us to Km 82 where it was time for everyone in the group to meet and have the picture taken under the famous ´Camino Inca´ sign. Then it was time to take the first steps of the Inca trail on the path to Machu Picchu. The first day’s walk was quite easy and the views were spectacular including the the snow-peaked Veronica Mountain and the bustling Vilcanota River.

After a hearty lunch (a common theme of the trek as the food was excellent) we made it to the first Inca ruins of Patallacta where the guide began to delve into the fascinating Inca culture.

After re-energising, we began the steady climb to Huayllabamba, where our friendly team of porters had our tents already set up and a cup of tea and popcorn waiting, just what the doctor ordered!

Day 2: The Hardest Day on the Inca Trail

After a great omlette breakfast and our introduction to the team of portsers, the hardest part of the trail was to begin. I had heard about this day and was a little bit worries about the altitude but was also very excited by the challenge.

The trek started with a steady climb up to the first meeting point about an hour away. The sun was shining which made for amazing views and scenerary but not the greatest of trekking conditions. After the first stop, things got a little more interesting as the trail became steeper and steeper. The sweat and toil was pouring out of every trekker on the trail as we all yearned to reach Warmiwañusca (Dead Woman’s Pass), at some 4200m (13,800ft) above sea level. The trail just seemed to keep going and goig however and there was no end in sight as the muscles in my legs began to feel the impact of every step harder and harder.

Finally after struggling up another steep hill I could see the top of the pass and the target was in my sights. I was re-vitalised and began to power on towards the top getting closer and closer. As I reached the top I, and many others were greeted with the applause and cheers of those trekkers who had already made it. There was a great sense of comradery and achievement from all groups doing the Inca Trail for reaching this milestone. Just to cap it off, the incredible, panoramic views of the mountains and landscape were more than worth it.

After a deserved rest it was time to descend with to our camp where the porters had again already set up our home for the night and it was time to relax and reflect on the most challenging but rewarding days of the Inca trail.

Day 3: Onward to Machu Picchu

After yesterdays exhausting day I thought this day would be a little easier but little did I know the trail started straight away with an ascent will begin to the second highest pass on the Trail, at more than 3900m above sea level. The views along the way were, once again, unbelievable and certainly makes any pain felt in the muscles very worth while. On the way up, we enjoy a guided visit to the Archaeological Complex of Runkurukay and, on the way down, the Inca Citadel of Sayacmarca before reaching our last camp where a deserved hot shower and beer was waiting. Never had a beer tasted so good! It was time for one last dinner in the camp and to thank the porters for the job they have done before getting to bed early in anticipation of tomorrow’s visit to Machu Picchu!

Day 4: Machu Picchu – Cusco

After a very early breakfast, we started the sacred walk through high rainforest to Inti Punku (Gateway of the Sun), the well-known entrance to Machu Picchu, with its unparallelled panoramic view of the Inca Citadel. Unfortunately for us the weather was not our friend this day and we could not see a thing through the thick mist. However, this made the first views of Machu Picchu very mystical with the fog lifting to make some great photo opportunities.

Machu Picchu itself also didn’t disappoint, in fact its hard to see how anyone could not be impressed by this famous Inca city. I was in awe at the sheer size of the ruins and the pristine condition it is in, which given the climate, is a miracle in itself. We then had a fascinating guided tour of the ruins and monuments, such as the Main Square, the Circular Tower and the Sacred Solar Clock. After free time it was then time to go to the town of Aguas Calientes to have lunch and a dip in the hot springs. Then we said goodbye to our wonderful tour guide and took the train back to Cusco after quite a journey.

Overall the Inca Trail is one of the must-do adventures in South America and even the world. The amazing views, fascinating history, pristine ruins and the physical challenge make it four days you will certainly remember for a long long time.

To find out more about the Inca Trail click here for further information.

Or alternatively to find out about the alternative trails or the train trip to Machu Picchu .

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