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Posts Tagged Peru Environmental tours

Chullpas of Sillustani – Peru

Apr 27

Posted by dillon in South American Tours | No Comments

The chullpas, an Andean mausoleum, stand out in the horizon at the archaeological site of Sillustani. These funerary constructions constantly remind visitors of the respect that the leaders of the ancient Andean civilizations awoke. They are located near Lake Titicaca and are a must on a highlights of Peru tour.

This cemetery in the Highlands not only contrasts the world of the living with the world of the dead, but it also is a tribute that revives the hegemonic class of cultures like Pucara, Colla, Tiahuanaco and Inca from centuries ago.

Lake Umayo adorns the entrance to the archaeological site. While walking along the path that leads to Sillustani, you will notice the importance of water within the pre-Hispanic cultural activities.

The cultivating system organized in successive plots of land and water (the latter of about 25 to 30 centimeters deep) is worth noting.

Sillustani

Sillustani

You can also see small handmade stone channels of stone, which go from the shore of the lake to the top of the mountain where the cemetery is located. Know that these aqueducts had basically two functions: preventing stagnation of water in the upper parts to prevent damage to the shrines of the leaders and also serving as a channel for the blood of the sacrifices to reach the Umayo Lake.

Higher up it is possible to see what remains of a ceremonial spot in Sillustani. It consists of two circles: the larger one represents the sun and the smaller one, the moon. The solstices, for example, were ideal dates, due to their energy, to make payments to Earth.

An icon that goes unnoticed along the way are some standing stones about 1.70 meters tall, rectangular and about 35 centimeters thick. According to Julio Suaña, Titilaka hotel guide, “these had the religious significance that has the cross in Catholicism has today.”

The Towers
When traveling Sillustani several questions arise: did those that lie within the highest and most imposing chullpas occupy the most important posts? Not necessarily.

As Suaña says, the whole place is sacred because it is occupied by the nobility of several pre-Inca and Inca cultures. Whether the stone tower that served as the tombstone was located higher or lower was not a significant factor, because what was important was that they were facing the sun and the lake.

However, the so-called Twin Towers prove that there was some hierarchy. In both cases, the stones that were placed at the entrance of the chullpa have twelve angles, which, according to Suaña, “represent the twelve months of the year and the number of important families in the area.”

Another one of the chullpas that is most recognized is that of the lizard, which is twelve meters high. It is named like that due to the reptile image that is engraved on the top.

Also pay attention to the rocks with small circular excavations in the interior. These highlight the gear method used by the Incas to build the most modern chullpas (smooth texture on the outside) in Sillustani.

Once on top, do not miss the breathtaking view of the Hualloc Plateau, surrounded by the Umayo and the typical landscapes of the Altiplano which runs from Cusco to Puno.

At the exit you should pay attention to the puma-shaped rocks that guard either side of the stairs to the cemetery (that used to be the entrance).

After the Lake Titicaca tour take the opportunity to buy souvenirs such as Andean knit hats or sweaters in the various crafts stands, visit the site museum or have something hot in the simple little café, located just outside the archaeological center.

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Huancayo – The Lesser Known Side of Peru

Apr 8

Posted by dillon in South American Tours | No Comments

Huancayo is located in the central highlands of Peru, in the gorgeous Mantaro valley. It’s not a touristy place and I’ve already been there, so why going back? Well, I wanted to ride the second highest train in the world, a journey with amazing landscapes and the feeling you are on top of the world. Also I wanted to explore the city and surroundings and discovered it is a must on a tour of Peru.

Main Plaza of Huancayo

Main Plaza of Huancayo

We left at seven in the morning, going east and then up to the mountains. The air was getting drier, which indicated we were getting higher. The landscape was changing too, taller mountains, beautiful blue sky and different vegetation. At the beginning some bushes and trees, later fields (corn, artichokes, among others) and at the highest point just the ichu (the only plant that can survive that high), but while going down to the valley lovely flowers were welcoming the visitors. Along the way there were 69 tunnels, 58 bridges and six zig-zags. Almost seven hours after departure, we reached the highest point: 4,800 meters! It was cold and hard to breathe. After that point, it was down the whole way to Huancayo, which is at 3,200 meters. It was almost 7:30 p.m. when we finally arrived on our first stop for  a highlights of Peru Tour.

Huancayo has grown a lot the past decades. In the 1980s it had 200,000 inhabitants — now the population is more than 450,000 and the first building I saw was a modern mall!

The first night was about settling down and taking things easy, because of the altitude. It was raining and a bit cold but that didn’t stop me. I walked to the main square Plaza Constitución, which was a lit up with yellow and warm lights that made me forget about how cold it was. Next stop was a recommended restaurant. This restaurant was one of the most expensive in town, but not expensive at all compared to the ones in Lima. I had a cup of warm coca leaf tea, so helpful for the headache caused by the altitude sickness and used everywhere in Peru, especially those heading to Cusco for a Machu Picchu Tour. It was Friday night and the streets were crowded with young people. I was impressed with the traffic, several minibuses and many taxis. All the taxis have a flat rate, so you don’t need to bargain like in Lima.

The next day started early with a good breakfast at a nice café, where prices are half of  what you would pay in Lima. The first stop was a hill outside the city Cerrito La Libertad, where you can get a nice view of the whole city and the lovely valley. Another recommended site was Torre Torre an impressive sandstone formation, just a 10-minute walk from the hill. This visit was about seeing charming adobe houses, small fields of potatoes, some dogs running and local residents enjoying a quiet day.

There was still plenty of time, so I went to Jauja, a small town nearby with some ruins and a lake with a famous trout farm. Jauja is pretty, therefore the Spanish chose it as the first capital of Peru. I didn’t climb all the way to the ruins. It was getting cloudier at the top of the mountain. Nevertheless, I walked for a while along the path. I saw a couple of farmers and their families working. The scenery was gorgeous. It was really peaceful there.

Back in Huancayo, I decided to explore the city itself. The main square definitely looked different during daytime. I think I preferred it at night. I also visited the Parque de la Identidad Huanca, a relatively new park, built in honor of local Huanca people. I even had time to go to the handicraft market. A tip: be ready to bargain. At night, I went to listen to some live music and see traditional dances. It was time to go back to the hotel. I wanted to wake up early next morning and visit the market. One of the things I recently learned is that visiting an open market is the best way to get to know a place better. The market is a place where you can really interact with the local people.

It was Sunday, the best day for visiting the market. On my way I could see street vendors offering all kind of food: sweets, salty snacks, quail eggs, soup, pork sandwiches etc.

Finally, I arrived at the central building. Since there are not many tourists visiting the market, taking pictures is

Markets

Markets

welcomed, but be careful with your camera. It was an eclectic mix of colorful flowers, fruits, vegetables, tongues, hearts and tripe. I like to watch people and this was the right place to do it. All the people were friendly.

Well, it was time to go to the bus station. The bus was cheaper than the train and the trip takes five hours less. Huancayo is not far away from Lima, therefore it’s a good choice for a weekend getaway on a Lima city tour and to leave behind the busy city and go somewhere peaceful in the Andes. There are two beautiful towns really close: Tarma and Jauja, plus the lovely valley. My advice is to go there by train, yes it’s more expensive, but worth it. As somebody said: “Life is a journey and not a destination.”

Chimu Adventures offers custom tours to Huancayo and a highlights of Peru tour, visit our website for more details.

The second highest train in the world took me to Huancayo, Peru.

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Uros Islands – Lake Titicaca

Mar 30

Posted by dillon in South American Tours | No Comments

Removed from political turmoil, Lake Titicaca provides with an undisturbed bubble of bliss. Along with hypnotising cobalt blue skies, ancient rituals and a damn fine fiesta to boot.

Historically, Titicaca has offered such sanctuary. In the 15th century, the Incan Empire swept south to conquer what is now Peru and Bolivia, enslaving indigenous tribes in subjugated territories. Straddling the border between the two countries, Titicaca was a strategic fulcrum. But the Uros Indians rebelled against the Incan regime. They took to the water and created a series of islands built upon beds of packed reeds. The world’s first man-made archipelago! To this day, the islands survive, as do their resilient Indian custodians. The Incas simply couldn’t be bothered flushing out the refugees.

The islands are named after their creators: Los Uros, “the Floating Islands” and are a must see on a Lake Titicaca tour. The inhabitants eke out a livelihood from fishing and tourism: upon touching shore, a cavalcade of indigenous women appear in gloriously vibrant garments and pelt-brown bowler hats, peddling local handicrafts on colourful mats.

Stepping onto this “terra non-firma” is an acutely bizarre experience. Like walking on a futon, the ground beneath you sinks slightly with each step. Each week packs of new reeds are sewn onto the ground to replace those submerged and disintegrating underneath.

Abruptly, we’re whisked away aboard one of Uros’s trademark reed boats; made of the same tortora reeds that constitute the islands’ foundations, roofs and walls of its dwellings. Our oarsman is a traditionally-clad local who looks straight out of an Andean pipe quartet. After the obligatory photo opportunities, we hop back into our motorcraft. Destination: Amantani. Accommodation: Titicaca farmhouse.

Amantani is the largest of Titicaca’s natural, non-floating islands, and home to some 5000 Aymara Indians. The inhabitants have proudly maintained their cultural distinction and autonomous control over tourism. No Hyatts or Mercures here: the only accommodation is a traditional Amantani farming homestead.

We dock on the foreshore and are met by a throng of farm women. One by one, our tour group is paired off, as our prospective hosts giggle among themselves. We locate our landlady, who promptly disappears up the island’s steep hills, forcing us to follow.

At 3870 metres above sea level, Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake. Clambering up Amantani’s precipitous ridges, one feels every wisp of diminishing oxygen. Each step is a breathless endeavour, mollified only by the area’s stunning natural beauty and the perfect symmetry of surrounding agricultural terraces. Even today, the ancient Incan systems of agriculture and stonemasonry are proudly preserved.

Our homestead is a basic whitewashed building, with chest-high doorways. Luckily we’re hardly Harlem Globetrotter-height, yet somehow we feel like Gandalf crouching down in a hobbit hovel.

Amantani residents are vegetarian, since raising animals for meat is impractical. Host families are paid a nominal fee by tour agents, but you’re recommended to bring a gift of rice, flour, sugar or other basic necessities.

In return we’re treated to a delightful spread of quinua soup (a Peruvian grain), rice, chips, eggs, and delicious herbal tea. I attempt to make small-talk with our matronly host, but she ducks out giggling. My fiancee notes that she may not speak Spanish, as Aymara Indians are self-sufficient and isolated.

We rejoin the Peru tour group and trek to Amantani’s crest, and the twin temples of Patchamama (Mother Earth) and Patchatata (Father Earth). Set on opposite hills, the ruins are guardians of the respective gods of fertility and the afterlife. In February, the islanders run a race between them, to determine how fortunes will fall for the forthcoming harvest.

Floating Islands of Uros - Lake Titicaca

Floating Islands of Uros - Lake Titicaca

We climb to the Patchamama temple, where we customarily orbit the shrine three times: for luck, health and a bountiful crop. As if responding, the gods bless us with the most dazzling sunset over the frosty currents of Titicaca. The moment is profoundly spiritual, or would have been, were it not for the torturous strains of pan-pipes played by children, busking for donations.

That night, a pea (dance) is organised for our group. The sole requirement is that we attend in local costume. The male uniform is a simple woollen poncho and woven beanie, while the women’s is a complex tangle of multilayered skirting that takes 30 minutes to don and transforms the most shapely female figure into a pepperpot.

A traditional Andean band entertains us in the village community hall. The Aymara women pluck out tourists for a strange circular dance in which participants drag each other violently in opposing directions. The women are surprisingly strong, and cackle at what pushovers we Western males are.

The true survivors of the night, however, are the local six-year-old girls. They select their favourite tourist partners, whom they thoroughly exhaust with an incessant display of youthful energy and curious skirt twirling.

While our stamina fades, our smiles do not. Titicaca and Amantani stamp us with a carefree happiness that, unlike de Botton’s ephemeral 10-minute joy, lasts the entire tour and beyond.

Chimu Adventures offers a Lake Titicaca Dreaming tour as well as a highlights of Peru tour including the great lake. Visit our website for more details.

Source: SMH

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A Peruvian Adventure with Chimu Adventures

Jan 8

Posted by dillon in Inca Trail Tours | No Comments

Chimu Adventures travelers – Ben and Josie Benoit – embark on a fantastic journey around South America and the world. Below tells of their adventures in Peru:

“10 days in and it feels like we’ve been away forever – and what a fantastic start to our adventure…a bonus upgrade to Business class on the flight out; the crazy, hectic city that is Lima for a 24-hour rude awakening to Peru; 3 blissful days meandering the streets and ruins of Cuzco; 4 energetic but immensely rewarding days doing the Inca Trail Tour to the stupendously beautiful (and fortunately really sunny) Machu Picchu; 1 day basking in the sun on an unforgettable steam train, journeying through the Andean countryside from Cuzco to Puno. We thank our lucky stars that we’ve seen (almost all of) the highlights of Peru.Cow Procession

24-hours in Lima

We won’t gloat any more about the flight upgrade but arriving in style to Lima really helped – they don’t let the other passengers off the plane until Bus. Classers have collected their luggage. Here we witnessed a cow parade, a brass band fanfare, a group of school children salsa-ing in the playground, a football match in the middle of the motorway, the fattest squat sweet corn plugged by the street vendors on every corner, tones of building work and an incredible church made from mud.

CuzcoCuzco streets

The afternoon flight to Cuzco was incredible – a 10 min, 20,000 feet, 180 degree descent into the town’s bowl, with spectacular mountains either side. Cuzco was much bigger than we expected but 3 days gave us ample time to explore and, of course, acclimatise to the 3,600 m.a.s.l. (metres above sea level) altitude. We stayed in a beautiful hostel (Amaru, on the San Blas), feasted on avocado, alpaca (tough), ceviche of trout in lemon juice (yum), guinea pig (questionable) and nachos, huffed and puffed up the steep, narrow roads to the “Sexy Woman” ruins, watched the world go by with a rocket-fuel coffee on the balconies overlooking the main plaza, took a day trip to the tall ruins and vibrant towns of Ollantaytambo and Pisac (via beautiful, sparse landscapes) and supped pisco sours and our first delicious South American wine. Our Cusco tour certainly was one not to be forgotten.

Inca trail

The time had finally come to embark on the Inca Trail – between us and Machu Picchu were 45 kilometers, ~25 hours of trekking and a great deal of sweat and resilience. We awake a little nervous at 0530 to head off to the “KM82” point, where the trail begins. Our guide is a softly spoken 25-year-old called Washington. He is barely capable of growing a beard and should be sitting his GCSEs rather than guiding us up the mountains of Peru – but he turns out to be extremely knowledgeable. We are in a group of 3 with our guide, and part of a larger group of 10 (plus 2 other guides and 9 amazing porters). Our other companions include a quiet Brazilian couple, a pessimistic Belgian couple (50 years old! – awesome stamina during the ascent), 2 lovely Irish honeymooners and 1 aloof Frenchman.

Day 1 of the hike is pretty comfortable. Ben’s knee has a dodgy moment, locking on the descent to lunch, but this is the only worry he encounters for the entire trip. Key-hole surgery is truly miraculous – his op. was 3 weeks before the trip! For our first lunch, we feast on asparagus soup and beef, tomatoes and rice in a small ‘dining’ tent. We arrive in a peasant village in Wayllabamba, in the shadow of a mountain called Veronica (nearly 6,000 metres high). We’re basically camping in the back garden of some farmers, and are woken up at 4am to a donkey depositing his ‘gifts’ at the opening of our tent and chickens pecking our guy ropes. Already getting back to grips with a flashlight torch and hole-in-the floor toilet training…Inca steps

Day 2 is the hardest day of the trek. A continuous 1,200 metre ascent to the “Dead Woman’s Pass”, followed by a steep 600 metre descent to the camp, all before any lunch!!! We kick off at 0500 for brekkie, are on the road for 0615 and arrive at Paqaymayu camp at 1330, having battled serious wind and rain. We spend a soggy evening in our water-logged tent, tempered only by the warm Andean rum punch (hot water, lemon, cinnamon, lime and rum) provided by Roger, the other guide who used his mafia-esque connections to procure alcohol and change our train tickets for an earlier departure on the final day. We love you, Roger!

Day 3 is spent trekking in and out of the jungle in an eerie mist punctuated by lovely Inca ruins, all building nicely for the main course of Machu Pichu on the final day. Day 3 is also the first opportunity we have for a warm shower. Well, that was true for one of us – they’ve upgraded the ladies’ showers only at camp. The site has a bar and a bit of music so we enjoy some seriously strong G&Ts before dinner. Day 3 is also most memorable because (a) the toilet situation has seriously improved, and (b) we get to meet all the porters who have carried our tents, food and cooking equipment all the way from “KM82”. Their job is probably the most unenviable in the world as they lug 25kgs of stuff up and down the Inca steps at breakneck speeds to arrive at camp, set up our tents and cook our food before we arrive. It was humbling to hear about their families and lifestyle. The least we could do was continually thank them, buy them a beer and offer them an appropriate tip.

Day 4 We leave camp at 0500 to peg it up the mountain to the Sun Gate to get the first glimpse of Machu Pichu. We arrive at 0615 and luckily, the sun has just risen and we get perfect views of the Lost City. From this distance, Machu Machu Pichu Postcard shotPicchu is looking pretty small, but once we get down to the ruins, the views are stupendous. We dump the loathed rucksacks and embark on a 2-hour tour with Washington, to learn about the King’s habitat for himself and his 400!! children, the result of several (100s of?) concubines, and the Sun Temple’s geometrically-aligned windows, allowing light during the summer and winter solstice to hit the same point on some special rock: a symmetry that, today, astrologists still marvel at.

Once the tour is over and we’ve finished gazing in wonder at this place, we head into Aguas Calientes for a well-deserved lunch. Jossie is brave enough to order a barbequed guinea pig, complete with head, paws, teeth and organ appendages. That’s officially our last encounter with the “Cuy” – not enough meat, and far too graphic to dissect. We chug back to Cuzco on a 2-hour train and 90 minute break-neck bus drive, enjoying the amazing landscape and feeling that we definitely earned the right to see such a modern wonder of the world.

And so to Puno…

Today is a completely different experience: as we write, we are meandering through fantastic countryside from Cuzco to Puno on the Andean Explorer, Peru’s equivalent of the Orient Express. Greg, an avid ‘trainer’ from the UK, tells us that this is the world’s most beautiful train journey. We kick off with pisco sours at 10am, have a silver service 3-course meal for lunch and afternoon tea with champagne cocktails. But best by far is the open-air, gold-railed final carriage, where we watched the world go by, sitting in the sun, and took thousands of photos of Peruvian life – farmers herding lamas, children playing by the railway, and the occasional manic town (Juliaca) selling anything from spare car parts, rope, books, fruit and veg by the side (and sometimes actually on!) the rail track.

So..1 more day left in Peru before we transfer to Copacabana for a different perspective of Lake Titicaca from the Bolivian side – it’s been a fantastic 10 days and we’d recommend Peru to anybody.”

Chimu Adventures offers many Peru tours including the Inca trail Tour, Highlights of Peru Tour and Lake Titicaca Tour. Visit our website for more details.

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Not Such a Bad Year for Chimu Adventures

Dec 22

Posted by dillon in Antarctica Cruises | No Comments

While I was reading the travel today e-newsletter I noticed an article describing how Stella chief executive Peter Lacaze has branded 2009 the “worst year in living memory” for the travel and aviation industry. While no one can dispute that it has been a tumultuous year for the travel industry, Chimu Adventures has gone against the grain and had the most successful year in our history. Bookings and sales have increased by over 200% in what was supposed to be one of the hardest years facing the travel industry in Australia.

We feel there are many reasons for this dramatic growth, one being the ever increasing popularity of South America as a tourist destination. South America is a continent that offers absolutely everything a traveler could ever want; from the cultural and sacred Inca Trail to Machu Picchu in Peru, the stunning wildlife of the Amazon and the Galapagos Islands, the cosmopolitan cities of Buenos Aires and Rio plus the mystical glaciers and mountains of Patagonia. South America offers this and so much more and there is little wonder why travelers are flocking there in record numbers.

Another reason is the success of Chimu’s multi-country tours which were introduced earlier this year. These give you a real taste of South America’s highlights but take into account that most people can’t take more than a couple of weeks off work. Tours like the South America circle and Buenos Aires to Rio have exploded in the previous year and are now among our most popular tours.

Another reason has to be the amazing airfares that we have seen to South America. Flights from Sydney to Buenos Aires return for as little as $1200 which was just unthinkable a couple of years ago.

2009 certainly was a fantastic year for Chimu Adventures and 2010 is shaping up to be an even bigger year. What surprises do we have in store? You will just have to wait and see.

Happy holidays to everyone!!

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Chimu Adventures and the local community

Sep 28

Posted by greg in South American Tours | No Comments

At Chimu Adventures we really pride ourselves on working with the local community. As a small company we are extremely flexible and work with communities in many different ways. This is highlighted by some of the travel industries most respected names working with us – names such as responsibletravel.com, infohub.com to the South American explorers club. We were also finalists in the Telstra Business Awards 2008 (a leading Australian award for businesses) due to our sustainable operations and commitment to the local communities in which we operate. A tour with Chimu adventures will give back, and you will make a difference! See our website for more information on our tours.

Chimu and the Environment

We really work hard to keep all our operations green! We are attempting to run all our worldwide offices currently on green energy (we are working towards 100%) from hydro electric, wind to solar power. The remainder of our company emissions are offset so that our operations are completely carbon neutral. Being web based, we are close to becoming a paperless environment, brochure prints are at a minimum (and printed on a requirement basis) and all pre departure information is emailed. We use energy saving bulbs in our work centres, and recycle all our waste. Staff are encouraged to ride a bike or take public transport to work, and Chimu Adventures pays for half of the cost of a bicycle purchase for staff.

Recently we have also started an initiave to plant a tree in Peru and Bolivia for each and every client travelling to these wonderful countries. So booking with is like your making your very own contribution to the environment!
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