Posts Tagged Cusco Peru treks

The Pantanal, Paraguay’s Amazon

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Pantanel Wetlands

If you’re headed to South America to see wildlife, you must go to the Pantanal , a huge wilderness region of swamps and marshes – wetlands created by the seasonal flooding of the river Paraguai and its many tributaries. Though it extends into the border areas of Bolivia and Paraguay, the bulk of the area is in the Brazilian states of Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul.

The rivers rise in the rainy season, October to March, flooding the area which was once an inland sea called Xaraés by the first Europeans to come across it. In the dry season, April to late September, the land dries out, leaving only a few waterholes where a fantastic array of wildlife gather.

The Pantanal appeals any time of year, but is during the dry season that most birders, ecologists, and other wildlife fans come to see birds such as the hyacinth blue macaw, jabiru woodstork, toucans, rhea, river otters, iguanas, anacondass, cougars, tapirs, crocodiles called caimans, deer, anteaters, dourado, jau and piranha fish, howler monkeys, capybaras (large rodents) and jaguar.

There are few towns, roads and people living in the Pantanal. It is an area of large fazendas, farms or ranches which may offer guest housing. They may also offer horseback riding or boat tours. Other accommodation choices are pousadas, pesqueiros and hotels. Pesqueiros are fishing camps which usually have fishing equipment and boats to rent. Fishing at Pantanel basin is a major attraction. There are also the botels, a floating hotel which travelers like for the convenience of being right on the water, but are expensive. You will need reservations at any of these, and they are on the pricey side, but the rates do include meals and transport by boat or plane from towns on the skirts of the Pantanal.

Getting to the Pantanal is most easily accomplished on the Brazilian side. Linhas Aéreas Pantanal, TAM, Vasp, Varig and Transbrasil flights from most major cities to Cuiaba, capital of Mato Grosso, on the northern edge of the Pantanal, or to Campo Grande, Capital of Mato, Grosso de Sul on the southern side. Campo Grande is 1041 km from São Paulo. From Campo Grande, take the bus or drive to Corumbá, the southern gateway to the Pantanal. The railroad from Santa Cruz, Bolivia crosses the border at Quijarro, near Corumbá on the rio Paraguai, and goes on to Campo Grande and other points east.

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Sunset in the Pantanel

Be aware that Corumbá has a rough reputation for drug traffic, poaching and other criminal activities. Be very cautious if you hire a local guide. From Paraguay, you cross the border at Pedr

o Juan Caballero into Ponta Poré and then drive to Campo Grande. You may also be able to arrange passage on a river boat from Asunción to Corumbá.

From Cuiaba, you have a choice of routes, Caceres to the west, Barão de Melgaço to the southeast and Poconé to the southwest. The majority of lodgings cluster around the Transpantaneira highway which begins at Poconé, about 100 km from Cuiaba, and runs south to Porto Jofre.

Depending on youtucanr choice of tour and/or accommodations, you’ll go budget to luxury. You may drive yourself, but gas stations are far apart. Hitchhiking is an accepted means of transportation but get an early start, so you can see the dawn and the animals gathering for an early morning drink.

The Parque Nacional Pantanal Matogrossense is near Porto Jofre. Here you’ll see land and wetlands described as Water Continent and the Pantanel which has a particularly fine overview. This site also discusses the environmental concerns about the Pantanal.

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Inti Raymi, Festival of the Sun, South America’s second biggest party!

Before the colonial Spaniards banned the ceremonial events occurring each WinterSolstice in Cuzco, the native residents gathered to honour the Sun God, sacrifice an animal to ensure good crops and to pay homage to the Inca, as the first born Son of the Sun.

The ceremonies took place at the winter sun festsolstice, when the sun is farthest from the earth. Fearing the lack of sun and ensuing famine, the ancient Incas gathered in Cuzco to honour the Sun God and plead for his return. The celebrants fasted for days before the event, refrained from physical pleasures and presented gifts to the Inca, who in return put on a lavish banquet of meat, corn bread, chicha and coca tea as they prepared to sacrifice llamas to ensure good crops and fertile fields.

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In 1572, Viceroy Toledo banned Inti Raymi celebrations as pagan and contrary to the Catholic faith. Following the edict, the ceremonies went underground.

Today, it’s the second largest festival in South America. Hundreds of thousands of people converge on Cuzco from other parts of the nation, South America and the world for a week long celebration marking the beginning of a new year, the Inti Raymi, the Festival of the Sun.

Every day has its events, from daytime expositions, street fairs, and people milling and dancing in the streets. In the evenings, live music from the best of Peruvian musical groups draws the crowds to the Plaza de Armas for free concerts. During the preceding year, in preparation for Inti Raymi, hundreds of actors are chosen to represent historical figures. Being selected to portray the Sapa Inca or his wife, Mama Occla, is a great honour.

The centrepiece of the festival is the all-day celebrations on June 24, the actual day of Inti Raymi. On this day, the ceremonial events begin with an invocation by the Sapa Inca in the Qorikancha, also spelled Koricancha square in front of the Santo Domingo church, built over the ancient Temple of the Sun. Here, the Sapa Inca calls on the blessings from the sun. Following the oration, Sapa Inca is carried on a golden throne, a replica of the original which weighed about 60 kilos, in a procession to the ancient fortress of Sacsayhuamán, in the hills above Cuzco. With the Sapa Inca come the high priests, garbed in ceremonial robes, then officials of the court, nobles and others, all elaborately costumed according to their rank, with silver and gold ornaments.

They walk along flower-bedecked streets, to music and prayers and dancing. Women sweep the streets to clear them of evil spirits. At Sacsayhuamán , where huge crowds await the arrival of the procession, Sapa Inca climbs to the sacred altar where all can see him.

Once all the celebrants are in place in the grand square of the fortress, there are speeches by Sapa Inca, the priests and representatives of the Suyos: the Snake for the world below, the Puma for life on earth, and the Condor for the upper world of the gods.

Parades of the festival

Parades of the festival

A white llama is sacrificed (now in a very realistic stage act) and the high priest holds aloft the bloody heart in honor of Pachamama. This is done to ensure the fertility of the earth which in combination with light and warmth from the sun provides a bountiful crop. The priests read the blood stains to see the future for the Inca.

As the sun begins to set, stacks of straw are set on fire and the celebrants dance around them to honour Tawantinsuty or the Empire of the Four Wind Directions. In ancient times, no fire was allowed that day until the evening fires.

The ceremony of Inti Raymi ends with a procession back to Cuzco. Sapa Inca and Mama Occla are carried on their thrones, the high priests and representatives of the Supas pronounce blessings on the people. Once again, a new year has begun.

June 24 is also celebrated throughout Peru as Indians Day or Peasants Day.

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Painting the Andes – A New Measure Against Global Warming?

An inventor has set out to paint the peaks of the Andes white in an attempt to combat the effects of climate change.

By painting the mountains, Eduardo Gold hopes to replicate the effect of Andean glaciers in Peru, which reflect back sunlight and hence heat back through the atmosphere.

The technique is scientifically plausible and, according to some scientists, may be the only method of lowering global temperatures in a crisis.

It is believed that painting the Andean Peaks will slow down the glacier melting

It is believed that painting the Andean Peaks will slow down the glacier melting

“A white surface reflects the sun’s rays back through the atmosphere and into space, in doing so it cools the area around it too,” said the 55-year-old activist. “In effect in creates a micro-climate, so we can say that the cold generates more cold, just as heat generates more heat.”

It is hoped the project will slow the melting of the glaciers and keep in tact the beautiful Andean peaks for tourists on a Peru highlights tour or the Inca trail.

Four workmen have been given the task of painting three peaks, starting with Peru’s Chalon Sombrero peak, which lies 4,756 metres above sea level.

Chalon Sombrero, like many of the Andean peaks in Peru, has seen its glacier disappear within living memory.

The painters who have already completed two hectares of a planned 70 have been recruited from Licapa village, which depends on the run-off from the mountain for its water.

The project is a low technology remedy for global warming. The workers use an environmentally-friendly mix of lime, industrial egg white and water, which is known to have been used since Peru’s colonial times

The whitewash is slopped out on the slopes from jugs.

If the underlying theory, which is known as Solar Radiation Management, works the glacier should re-emerge in a cooler micro-climate.

The £135,000-project is funded by the World Bank after Mr Gold won a “100 Ideas to Save the Planet” competition last year.

The World Bank last year estimated that 22 per cent of Peru’s glaciers have melted since 1980 and there are projections that all the country’s glaciers could disappear in the next 20 years.

While novel the painting scheme is not the only outlandish way of tackling global warming proposed. Firing mirrors into space to reflect the sun’s rays, or feeding cattle garlic to reduce methane emissions have been mooted.

Locals who have witnessed the destruction of the glaciers are strong supporters of Mr Gold’s scheme. “All the peaks here should be painted in this way,” said Pablo Parco Palomino. “That way there would be as much water as there was before the glacier disappeared, and that would mean more pasture to support more livestock.”

But Antonio Brack, Peru’s Environment Minister, told the World Bank that its funding would be better spent on other “projects which would have more impact in mitigating climate change.”

Mr Gold believes he can put the theory into practice and get results. “I’d rather try and fail to find a solution than start working out how we are going to survive without the glaciers, as if the situation was irreversible,”

Steven Chu, the US Energy Secretary, has endorsed installation of white roofs to help prevent climate change, an idea seen as more logistically feasible than painting mountain peaks.

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Full reopening of railway between Cusco and Machu Picchu

28th June 2010, London: Ferrocarril Transandino has announced the full re-opening of the railway from Cusco to Machu Picchu on schedule for the peak season.

Ferrocarril Transandino has announced that as of the 25th June the complete railway line from Cusco to Machu Picchu has opened, with all tourist train services returning to a normal service from 1st July.  PeruRail is commencing all operations on its tourist trains including a refurbished Vistadome, an upgraded backpacker service which is now named Expedition and the luxury Hiram Bingham train. The only restriction will be on the speed limit of the trains from the stations of Cusco, Poroy and Ollantaytambo.

The complete re-opening follows months of intense work on the route, after many parts of the track were severely

Machu Picchu - One of the seven wonders of the world

Machu Picchu - One of the seven wonders of the world

damaged during flooding at the end of January 2010.  Visitors have been able to reach Machu Picchu since the end of March from a temporary station in Piscacucho at km 82 (a station beyond Ollantaytambo).

Machu Picchu is one of South America’s major tourist attractions and was given the title of one of the new Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.   2011 will mark 100 years since the rediscovery of Machu Picchu when the American explorer and politician, Hiram Bingham rediscovered the lost city of the Incas in 1911 and brought its attention to the rest of the world.

Chimu Adventures offers many tours to Machu Picchu including the Inca trail, highlights of Peru and South America Circle tours. Visit our website for more details.

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Alternatives To Machu Picchu

With experts predicting Machu Picchu could be under threat, new tours to the alternative ruins are becoming increasingly more popular:

Machu Picchu, the 15th century Inca citadel, has become a cornerstone of Latin America tourism since the American historian, Hiram Bingham, first stubbed his toe on an overgrowth-covered stone slab in 1911.

Today the site attracts up to 700,000 visitors each year: in the forthcoming high season (July and August) you can spot around 1,000 Gore-Tex jackets clambering over the Sun Gate to catch the first rays at dawn.

In recent years, however, concerns have been expressed that Machu Picchu is falling victim to its own success. The primary concern is that the high volume of visitors is harming the site’s infrastructure. The United Nations cultural agency wants visitor numbers more than halved, while Unesco has said that it may put the ruin on its list of endangered sites.

The National Cultural Institute of Peru – the managing body responsible for Machu Picchu – have responded with a slew of measures intended to limit tourist numbers and improve conditions for the porters, who carry travellers’ backpacks in all weathers along the high-altitude Inca Trail. As a result, most visitors must now wait four to five days in Cuzco before getting a place on a trek.

Despite this, Machu Picchu remains the number one must-see on a South America tour. And, as such, the hunt is now on for new Inca ruins as a viable, ecologically sound alternative.

What most people don’t realise, however, is that there’s no shortage of alternative Inca trails, including hikes in Bolivia and Ecuador, Peru’s Andean neighbours.

Here we present four alternatives to Machu Picchu where you can catch the ruins but avoid the crowds.

The Choquequirao trail, Peru

Where? Meaning “Cradle of Gold” in the local Quechua language, this site – located just 50 miles from the world-renowned Inca trail – is being hotly tipped as the next Machu Picchu.

Choquequirao Ruins in Peru

Choquequirao Ruins in Peru

What’s to see? The new site is currently being championed by a French government initiative personally overseen by President Chirac. While the site is open for visitors, excavations are continuing to uncover the ruins. With new EU funding incoming, the development of surrounding infrastructure is likely to continue apace in the next few years.

How to get there: From Cuzco, it’s a tough eight-day trek by mule along passes in the Vilcabamba mountain range at an altitude of up to 4,600m – not for the faint-hearted.

The Ingapirca trail, Ecuador

Where? Ingapirca, located just 31 miles north Cuenca, is one of the most significant sites of the Inca empire and Ecuador’s best-preserved Inca ruins.

What’s to see? Following Inca pathways past mountain lakes and grassy valleys, this is one for scenery lovers. Better still, chances are you’ll have the trail to yourself as it receives just a fraction of the foot traffic of other Inca routes. Afterwards, stop off in the colonial city of Cuenca, the home of the Panama hat.

How to get there: Head by road from Quito to the trailhead at the village of Achupallas, after which it’s a moderate three-day trek. The last section of the trail is follows a 7m-wide Inca road directly to the ruins at Ingapirca.

The Choro trail, Bolivia
Where? Descending steeply from a high-altitude (4,750m) pass at La Cumbre, 14 miles outside of La Paz, to low-lying Coroico in the tropical Yungas region, this is one of the most popular treks in Bolivia.

What’s to see? This well-signposted trail follows a pre-Hispanic road that cuts through a savage but spectacular landscape via tiny villages and rustic pueblos. It’s low on infrastructure – take plenty of supplies – but great for a glimpse of rural Bolivian life. There’s also an overnight at the orchid plantation of Sandillani.

How to get there: Accessed from La Paz, it’s a moderate four-day, 37 miles walk and, best of all, almost completely downhill.

The pre-Inca trail, Peru

Where? From Cajamarca, inland from Peru’s northern coast, the trail leads, via Chiclayo and Sipán, where the most elaborate Moche tombs in Peru were discovered in 1987, to the town of coastal town of Trujillo, visiting other pre-Inca sites at Pampa Grande, El Dragón, and Chan Chán en route.

What’s to see? There’s more to Peru than just the Incas. Indeed, the north coast of Peru was home to the pre-Inca civilisations of the Moche and Chimu cultures, whose handiwork with roads and canals are thought to have inspired the Inca’s vast network.

How to get there: Cajamarca has daily flight connections to Lima; some flights are routed via Trujillo.

Contact Chimu to day to organise one of these great alternative treks!

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Chullpas of Sillustani – Peru

The chullpas, an Andean mausoleum, stand out in the horizon at the archaeological site of Sillustani. These funerary constructions constantly remind visitors of the respect that the leaders of the ancient Andean civilizations awoke. They are located near Lake Titicaca and are a must on a highlights of Peru tour.

This cemetery in the Highlands not only contrasts the world of the living with the world of the dead, but it also is a tribute that revives the hegemonic class of cultures like Pucara, Colla, Tiahuanaco and Inca from centuries ago.

Lake Umayo adorns the entrance to the archaeological site. While walking along the path that leads to Sillustani, you will notice the importance of water within the pre-Hispanic cultural activities.

The cultivating system organized in successive plots of land and water (the latter of about 25 to 30 centimeters deep) is worth noting.

Sillustani

Sillustani

You can also see small handmade stone channels of stone, which go from the shore of the lake to the top of the mountain where the cemetery is located. Know that these aqueducts had basically two functions: preventing stagnation of water in the upper parts to prevent damage to the shrines of the leaders and also serving as a channel for the blood of the sacrifices to reach the Umayo Lake.

Higher up it is possible to see what remains of a ceremonial spot in Sillustani. It consists of two circles: the larger one represents the sun and the smaller one, the moon. The solstices, for example, were ideal dates, due to their energy, to make payments to Earth.

An icon that goes unnoticed along the way are some standing stones about 1.70 meters tall, rectangular and about 35 centimeters thick. According to Julio Suaña, Titilaka hotel guide, “these had the religious significance that has the cross in Catholicism has today.”


The Towers
When traveling Sillustani several questions arise: did those that lie within the highest and most imposing chullpas occupy the most important posts? Not necessarily.

As Suaña says, the whole place is sacred because it is occupied by the nobility of several pre-Inca and Inca cultures. Whether the stone tower that served as the tombstone was located higher or lower was not a significant factor, because what was important was that they were facing the sun and the lake.

However, the so-called Twin Towers prove that there was some hierarchy. In both cases, the stones that were placed at the entrance of the chullpa have twelve angles, which, according to Suaña, “represent the twelve months of the year and the number of important families in the area.”

Another one of the chullpas that is most recognized is that of the lizard, which is twelve meters high. It is named like that due to the reptile image that is engraved on the top.

Also pay attention to the rocks with small circular excavations in the interior. These highlight the gear method used by the Incas to build the most modern chullpas (smooth texture on the outside) in Sillustani.

Once on top, do not miss the breathtaking view of the Hualloc Plateau, surrounded by the Umayo and the typical landscapes of the Altiplano which runs from Cusco to Puno.

At the exit you should pay attention to the puma-shaped rocks that guard either side of the stairs to the cemetery (that used to be the entrance).

After the Lake Titicaca tour take the opportunity to buy souvenirs such as Andean knit hats or sweaters in the various crafts stands, visit the site museum or have something hot in the simple little café, located just outside the archaeological center.

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Aerolineas Announces Possible New Buenos Aires – Cusco Flight

Argentine airline Aerolineas Argentinas announced that by the end of this year it would begin flying from Buenos Aires to Cusco, with a stopover in an Argentine province that has yet to be determined.

The state-run airline, the largest domestic and international airline in Argentina, expressed its interest in covering this route at Expo Perú in December 2009.

Machu Picchu - Cusco's biggest attraction

Machu Picchu - Cusco's biggest attraction

Aerolineas Argentinas official Jorge Lopez said the company’s interest has not changed due to the recent adverse weather conditions, particularly heavy rains in many Cusco areas.

“We are still keen to fly to Cusco because it is a favourite destination for Argentine citizens and a major attraction in world tourism,” he told Andina.

“The progress of this project will depend on the company’s future performance and its criteria for prioritizing investment projects, including that of Cusco,” he added.

The project would be great news for Long – haul visitors to South America from Australia and New Zealand in particular. Greg Carter of Chimu Adventures says this would give a chance for tourists visiting Argentina to have a quick stop over in Cusco to see the world famous Machu Picchu ruins – “Usually, visitors flying into Buenos Aires that want to see Machu Picchu, have to endure another  flight to Cusco via Lima which can be quite long and not always have desirable connections. However, with this new flight from Aerolineas Argentinas, travellers have the opportunity to fly to Cusco in a lot shorter time giving greater access to the ancient ruins.”

Cruise passengers on the popular Buenos Aires – Santiago route are also set to benefit as Chimu Adventures will be unveiling a promotional Machu Picchu side trip package, including return Buenos Aires to Cusco flights, when the flight becomes operational.

Chimu Adventures offers Buenos Aires stopover tours as well as Cusco and Machu Picchu tours, the famous Inca trail to Machu Picchu and longer Andes & Amazon tours. Visit www.chimuadventures.com for more details.

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Machu Picchu to Re-open to Tourists

Following the closure of access to Machu Picchu after the recent flooding, the Cultural National Institute of Peru (INC) and Ferrocarril Transandino (FTSA) has announced that the railroad is due to be reopened on 29th March.  The Inca Citadel of Machu Picchu will reopen to tourists on 1st April 2010.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu

Visitors will take road transportation from Cusco to a train station at Piscacucho at km 82 (a station beyond Ollantaytambo) and from there will board the train to Aguas Calientes.  An official ceremony will mark the reopening of the railway on 29th March for the first train and then visitors are able to partake in Machu Picchu tours and the famous treks to citadel such as the Inca trail tour.

For those wishing to take the Inca Trail route to Machu Picchu, the trek is also expected to be open on the 1st of April.  There are also many alternative and outstanding treks on offer, such as the Salkantay and Lares trek which also reach Machu Picchu.

According to the verification conducted by the Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism, the Machu Picchu Archeological Complex, as well as the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu itself, did not suffer any damage at all in the recent floods.

Machu Picchu is one of South America’s major tourist attractions and was given the title of one of the new Seven Wonders of the World in 2007.   2011 will mark 100 years since the rediscovery of Machu Picchu when the American explorer and politician, Hiram Bingham rediscovered the lost city of the Incas in 1911 and brought its attention to the rest of the world.

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A Peruvian Adventure with Chimu Adventures

Chimu Adventures travelers – Ben and Josie Benoit – embark on a fantastic journey around South America and the world. Below tells of their adventures in Peru:

“10 days in and it feels like we’ve been away forever – and what a fantastic start to our adventure…a bonus upgrade to Business class on the flight out; the crazy, hectic city that is Lima for a 24-hour rude awakening to Peru; 3 blissful days meandering the streets and ruins of Cuzco; 4 energetic but immensely rewarding days doing the Inca Trail Tour to the stupendously beautiful (and fortunately really sunny) Machu Picchu; 1 day basking in the sun on an unforgettable steam train, journeying through the Andean countryside from Cuzco to Puno. We thank our lucky stars that we’ve seen (almost all of) the highlights of Peru.Cow Procession

24-hours in Lima

We won’t gloat any more about the flight upgrade but arriving in style to Lima really helped – they don’t let the other passengers off the plane until Bus. Classers have collected their luggage. Here we witnessed a cow parade, a brass band fanfare, a group of school children salsa-ing in the playground, a football match in the middle of the motorway, the fattest squat sweet corn plugged by the street vendors on every corner, tones of building work and an incredible church made from mud.

CuzcoCuzco streets

The afternoon flight to Cuzco was incredible – a 10 min, 20,000 feet, 180 degree descent into the town’s bowl, with spectacular mountains either side. Cuzco was much bigger than we expected but 3 days gave us ample time to explore and, of course, acclimatise to the 3,600 m.a.s.l. (metres above sea level) altitude. We stayed in a beautiful hostel (Amaru, on the San Blas), feasted on avocado, alpaca (tough), ceviche of trout in lemon juice (yum), guinea pig (questionable) and nachos, huffed and puffed up the steep, narrow roads to the “Sexy Woman” ruins, watched the world go by with a rocket-fuel coffee on the balconies overlooking the main plaza, took a day trip to the tall ruins and vibrant towns of Ollantaytambo and Pisac (via beautiful, sparse landscapes) and supped pisco sours and our first delicious South American wine. Our Cusco tour certainly was one not to be forgotten.

Inca trail

The time had finally come to embark on the Inca Trail – between us and Machu Picchu were 45 kilometers, ~25 hours of trekking and a great deal of sweat and resilience. We awake a little nervous at 0530 to head off to the “KM82” point, where the trail begins. Our guide is a softly spoken 25-year-old called Washington. He is barely capable of growing a beard and should be sitting his GCSEs rather than guiding us up the mountains of Peru – but he turns out to be extremely knowledgeable. We are in a group of 3 with our guide, and part of a larger group of 10 (plus 2 other guides and 9 amazing porters). Our other companions include a quiet Brazilian couple, a pessimistic Belgian couple (50 years old! – awesome stamina during the ascent), 2 lovely Irish honeymooners and 1 aloof Frenchman.

Day 1 of the hike is pretty comfortable. Ben’s knee has a dodgy moment, locking on the descent to lunch, but this is the only worry he encounters for the entire trip. Key-hole surgery is truly miraculous – his op. was 3 weeks before the trip! For our first lunch, we feast on asparagus soup and beef, tomatoes and rice in a small ‘dining’ tent. We arrive in a peasant village in Wayllabamba, in the shadow of a mountain called Veronica (nearly 6,000 metres high). We’re basically camping in the back garden of some farmers, and are woken up at 4am to a donkey depositing his ‘gifts’ at the opening of our tent and chickens pecking our guy ropes. Already getting back to grips with a flashlight torch and hole-in-the floor toilet training…Inca steps

Day 2 is the hardest day of the trek. A continuous 1,200 metre ascent to the “Dead Woman’s Pass”, followed by a steep 600 metre descent to the camp, all before any lunch!!! We kick off at 0500 for brekkie, are on the road for 0615 and arrive at Paqaymayu camp at 1330, having battled serious wind and rain. We spend a soggy evening in our water-logged tent, tempered only by the warm Andean rum punch (hot water, lemon, cinnamon, lime and rum) provided by Roger, the other guide who used his mafia-esque connections to procure alcohol and change our train tickets for an earlier departure on the final day. We love you, Roger!

Day 3 is spent trekking in and out of the jungle in an eerie mist punctuated by lovely Inca ruins, all building nicely for the main course of Machu Pichu on the final day. Day 3 is also the first opportunity we have for a warm shower. Well, that was true for one of us – they’ve upgraded the ladies’ showers only at camp. The site has a bar and a bit of music so we enjoy some seriously strong G&Ts before dinner. Day 3 is also most memorable because (a) the toilet situation has seriously improved, and (b) we get to meet all the porters who have carried our tents, food and cooking equipment all the way from “KM82”. Their job is probably the most unenviable in the world as they lug 25kgs of stuff up and down the Inca steps at breakneck speeds to arrive at camp, set up our tents and cook our food before we arrive. It was humbling to hear about their families and lifestyle. The least we could do was continually thank them, buy them a beer and offer them an appropriate tip.

Day 4 We leave camp at 0500 to peg it up the mountain to the Sun Gate to get the first glimpse of Machu Pichu. We arrive at 0615 and luckily, the sun has just risen and we get perfect views of the Lost City. From this distance, Machu Machu Pichu Postcard shotPicchu is looking pretty small, but once we get down to the ruins, the views are stupendous. We dump the loathed rucksacks and embark on a 2-hour tour with Washington, to learn about the King’s habitat for himself and his 400!! children, the result of several (100s of?) concubines, and the Sun Temple’s geometrically-aligned windows, allowing light during the summer and winter solstice to hit the same point on some special rock: a symmetry that, today, astrologists still marvel at.

Once the tour is over and we’ve finished gazing in wonder at this place, we head into Aguas Calientes for a well-deserved lunch. Jossie is brave enough to order a barbequed guinea pig, complete with head, paws, teeth and organ appendages. That’s officially our last encounter with the “Cuy” – not enough meat, and far too graphic to dissect. We chug back to Cuzco on a 2-hour train and 90 minute break-neck bus drive, enjoying the amazing landscape and feeling that we definitely earned the right to see such a modern wonder of the world.

And so to Puno…

Today is a completely different experience: as we write, we are meandering through fantastic countryside from Cuzco to Puno on the Andean Explorer, Peru’s equivalent of the Orient Express. Greg, an avid ‘trainer’ from the UK, tells us that this is the world’s most beautiful train journey. We kick off with pisco sours at 10am, have a silver service 3-course meal for lunch and afternoon tea with champagne cocktails. But best by far is the open-air, gold-railed final carriage, where we watched the world go by, sitting in the sun, and took thousands of photos of Peruvian life – farmers herding lamas, children playing by the railway, and the occasional manic town (Juliaca) selling anything from spare car parts, rope, books, fruit and veg by the side (and sometimes actually on!) the rail track.

So..1 more day left in Peru before we transfer to Copacabana for a different perspective of Lake Titicaca from the Bolivian side – it’s been a fantastic 10 days and we’d recommend Peru to anybody.”

Chimu Adventures offers many Peru tours including the Inca trail Tour, Highlights of Peru Tour and Lake Titicaca Tour. Visit our website for more details.

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Inca Trail 2010 Season

Reach Machu Picchu on the Inca TrailThere is no more popular Peru Tour than the Inca Trail and 2009 was a fantastic year for the famous trek. The year  saw it’s popularity continue to grow and grow as almost all days were a complete sell out and it is obvious to see why as the Inca trail tour is one of the most historic, cultural and scenic treks in the world. The four day hike can be challenging at times but the rewards are more than worth it as you reach one of the Seven Wonders of the World –Machu Picchu, the traditional way.

Right now there is great availability for all months in 2010. However, if 2009 was anything to go by 2010 will be booked out fast so get in quick to secure your place now!

Chimu Adventures offers the 4 day Inca Trail tour at very competitive prices as well as many other Peru Tours. Visit our website for more details.

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