Departing from Cusco train station, I rubbed my eyes and through the early morning fog I glimpsed Jose’s buttons glaring at me through the haze. I didn’t know it at the time, but Jose was due to become my best friend over the next 8 hours for my train ride from the imperial Inca city of Cusco to the highest city in Peru, Puno. At 3800m above sea level Puno sits on the shores of the magnificent lake Titicaca, my next destination. But first I had to get there.
I did try to pretend I was asleep, it was far too early (well 7am!) to do with formalities and introducing myself to my fellow passengers!. Jose tapped me on the shoulder and passed me a hot towel, I didn’t refuse. Instantly I perked up, I was awake.. the towel did its job!. The train started to move out of the station, the whistle blew and I started to see the waking city of Cusco pass me by. What a sight!.. Cusco is one of those cities you just have to see, words cant describe its blend of perfect Inca stonework, colonial churches and buildings, and colourful people. The past few days in its majestic streets made me fall in love with the city again, it was my 4th visit, and it gets better every time!
The train was climbing higher now, and I could see the Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral disappearing in the distance, we continued on our course – following the river. The river would be our guide for the next 100 miles or so. Life in the Peruvian countryside revolves around its access to water. Its needed to drink, to water the crops, to provide nourishment to animals, to bathe and to admire!. As the train slowly moved along we pass small villages, local kids running next to the train screaming, laughing, and then disappearing as quickly as they appear, we see fields with Vicunas, Llamas and Alpacas, they stare as we go past, carrying on with the lifestyle they had done since before the Incas. It’s a magnificent experience, passing through this kind of scenery in the mid morning sun..
I dozed for I would say an hour, waking to a gentle smell of food coming my way. Lunch was now to be served. The waiting staff proceeded to enter the cabin with the cutlery, and in fine silver service fashion laid all the tables in the carriage at once, it was magnificent to watch, Jose’s buttons still gleamed!. Dinner was a 4 course masterclass in Peruvian Cuisine. Lunch is something taken very seriously in Peru, and if your fortunate to be able to pay a bit more than the average punter you are indeed in for a bigger treat than normal. Peru combines food from its 3 main regions, the coast, the mountains and the jungle, with a host of dishes and combinations from each. We ate in style – everything from my Papa Huacaina (Potato with creamed chilli salsa), to the Lomo Saltado (Peruvian stir fry) was fantastic! All washed down with Cusco’s beer of choice: Cusquena, No matter where your from, beer doesn’t get much better!
After lunch I took a stroll to the bar carriage (probably something to do with the beer I had for lunch!). The glassed encased bar was in full swing – a Peruvian cocktail making course was in progress!.. What a good spot to sit down I thought!. The last carriage on the train is all encased in glass, save for the last part of the carriage which is open air – and a great spot to take photos – the train moves at about 50km an hour, so a good speed to take shots at. By now we had passed the river and were crossing the vast altiplano on our way to Puno, We pass some magnificent peaks of around 6000 metres above sea level and even stop for a while at 4200m for a breath of fresh air and a very brief (that’s all the altitude allows!) walk around. Some local women were there to meet us with some local crafts, a quick purchase of an alpaca hat was in order and I was back on the train. I returned to my comfortable seat in the first class carriage and drifted off to sleep. As I drifted I thought to myself “This is the way to travel..” nice and relaxed, and people being paid to make sure you enjoy it – From free cocktails to a magnificent meal, travelling in Peru doesn’t get much better than this..


